64 miles in 7hrs 10 mins (with only snack stops)
Total Distance - 3,419miles
Today basically started well, then got better and better.
Firstly, apologies for the investment chat in the next bit but its been an important 'hobby' for me while I've been on the road. As with so many weekdays on the trip I awoke early and couldn't resist checking up on my Bloomberg app. to see how the little hedge fund (and I mean little!) that I've been keeping going since just before I left was doing. After two of it's poorest days in quite some time on Tues & Wed I was a touch worried. Today, though, was a very good day, taking it up through the 50% return on invested capital since it was 'founded' at the end of Feb (and for the finance folk amongst you, that's not just from playing the market rally as it's been broadly market neutral on a beta-adjusted basis - though, obviously cause it's been working it's become a bit net long so the long Sanofi position got trimmed down today - and yes, that's yet another Sanofi trade I've made money on Messers Gestrin and Baker). Excited and delighted I couldn't get back to sleep, especially given the stage that lay ahead.
Now back to the cycling - As I set off at nine, the clouds looked thicker than I expected, especially over the ridge I was heading for. Before leaving Talihina I got confirmed what I'd heard - there was no food or even water stops all the way along the stage until a dozen miles short of Mena. As a result the panniers were promptly filled with large quantities of juice, water and snacks making the bike the heaviest it's been since the 'death' stage out of Vegas to Kingman. But I was in no rush what-so-ever. Today way about enjoying the journey on what was to be my last day of big climbing for the trip with over 5,000ft vs the average 1,000ft days that lie ahead into Miami. I slowly covered the 9 miles to the start of the Talimena Scenic Byway and paused for a moment to take a few pics beside the 'Warning: Gradients of 13% Next 21 Miles' sign. This was going to be a challenging but fun day.
The road promptly went steeply upwards and I more than happily ground the gears round realizing that I was, perhaps strangely, really enjoying it. The road was empty with the first traffic I saw being a coyote trotting along a hundred yards up ahead. Then, a matter of seconds later, a roadrunner shot across the concrete into the trees. Couldn't have scripted it better. That was my only company for the first hour or so until I reached the first summit of the ridge when I was passed by two bikers just as the road dropped away as steeply as it had gone up which made for a 35-40mph two mile chase of the motorised wheels. I guessed they must have been surprised to see me still in their mirrors at the end of the descent and, when I bumped into them hours later, they confirmed they had been. That first taste of the ultra fast, steep and winding downhills had definitely been at the borderline of control and at the top of every descent for the rest of the day I had a feeling if nervous anticipation about what was down round the next corner, and more importantly, whether I could make it round it.
And this was the story of the day; insanely steep, but just ridable climbs (such as the pic), mad descents and a rolling road through the trees along the ridge complete with the pleasantly overwhelming aroma of the newly cut verge. The regular viewpoints dealt up spectacular views despite the still overcast skies and poor visibility. I was absolutely loving it and coasted along just enjoying the ride, in as little a rush as I've been all trip. More than once I found myself briefly wanting a puncture so the day would continue on for longer. The near solitude continued for hours as I looked on to see the vast expanse of trees with only what looked like the occasional brush stroke of grey through it that was the road ahead.
After five delightful hours I cycled across the state line out of Oklahoma into the tenth state of my trip, Arkansas before zipping down into the town of Mena
I was even asking myself the question; Is this the best road of the trip? I have to say it's definitely up there. And I imagine that on a cool, crisp early autumn morning when the colours on the endless views of trees are turning I think it would be top of my list. Somewhere that, without hesitation, I'd definitely come back to, but know that, in reality, I almost certainly won't. If you're ever in the area, though, take the detour.
On a different subject, though, I've just discovered I've made a gargantuan error in my planning. Having done my laundry and with three consecutive century days lying ahead I decided it was time to unleash the buffet ninja in me once more and just hope I don't have another 'Lemond moment' tomorrow. I walked into the Chinese restaurant and took a seat....
Waitress "Can I get you a drink sir?"
Me "Yes, a beer please"
Waitress "ah, what was that sir?"
Me "Just a beer of some sort please"
This brought nervous laughter from said waitress followed by "Eh, this is a dry county, sir"
Stunned, silence; feather, knock down
And I thought I'd been speechless when I saw the Grand Canyon! I know I was going slowly today but didn't realise I'd been going 'backwards'. I honestly didn't know that anywhere left in the civilised world that was 'dry'. I thought that whole experiment was pretty convincingly proved to be a failure about 80 years ago. All of a sudden I'm very suspicious of this place. And let's be honest we know why it's dry, and in my book any belief system that results in you not being able to have a beer is seriously suspect.
Looks like tomorrow I shall be setting off in search of an Ice Cold in Arkansas.
