65 miles, 8hrs 10mins (incl. food stops)
Mostly a really tough day today, both physically and mentally. The three-or-so mile climb out from Fairholm campground was probably up there as one of the least enjoyable i.e. most painful things I've ever done, and I ain't kidding. My left knee was not pleasant at all and I was going slower than walking pace. Therefore, I had resigned myself to a long, long day in the saddle, with the emphasis on 'in'. However, at the top of the climb - which, incidentally came some 410ft, earlier than the gps turd was saying it would - the knee suddenly improved. Still pretty sore but considerably better. I was therefore able to push on, albeit at a painful average of less than 10mph, until some 47 miles, of rather bland, grey-skied, trees-as-far-as-the-eye-can-see scenery when, for no apparent reason, another dramatic improvement happened. As a result, for the first time all day I was able to pedal standing up for more than half a pedal stroke. Now this excess sitting time has, unsurprisingly, not done my sit bones any favours. Slapped on the arse by an overly affectionate drunken elephant would be a fair description of how I'm feeling. Still, takes my mind off the sore knee I guess. The only real highlight of those first 47 was getting to the point where the road turned south; and knowing I'd be heading in that general direction, for the next ~1,800 miles.
All the pain and tedium was forgotten when I finally reached the mighty Pacific Ocean. An early landmark on the trip for me. I got a massive lift from my first glimpse of it and found myself suddenly spinning along the last six miles at a respectable 16mph (well it's respectable for a fully laden bike, Dave).
Now I had been thinking of camping again tonight, but figured that three nights outside this early in the trip was a bit too much to take. So, I'm safely checked into the Kalaloch Lodge. Admittedly, the room smells like the toilets at a fashion show after lunch, but I'm guessing I don't exactly smell to plush myself, and there's also no TV. But with this pic as the view from my window/bed, I'm not complaining about anything. There's something marvelously calming about watching the waves roll in and crash on the shore...
However, on a different note, the whole day was put massively into perspective by the text I received early this morning from my good friend in Edinburgh, Mike Linn, letting me know that his mother, Betty, had finally lost her battle with cancer. Personally I'll remember Betty as always smiling and wonderfully welcoming and, despite my numerous comments to the contrary about Mike, together with Chris she really did a great job in raising their two kids.
My thoughts are with you.
